Back in June 2019, I travelled north to the Hebrides on the west coast of Scotland with Mr Fenwick, accepting a kind invite from family to holiday on the Isle of Mull. Here are just some of the highlights of what this beautiful island has to offer...
Spanning 50 miles north to south, Mull is the second largest of the Hebridean islands. There is a natural wilderness here with such splendid variety: towering sea cliffs, white sandy beaches, glistening lochs, dramatic mountains, crystal clear rivers, stunning waterfalls, mossy woodland, and undulating terrain populated with wildflowers and wildlife. It’s a tonic for the soul.
We travelled to Mull on the car ferry from Oban, a distance of 11 miles from the mainland. It was a smooth crossing and we arrived in Craignure within 48 minutes. The quiet drive to our base-camp on the west coast took us through breathtaking scenery.
We stayed at Oskamull, a formidable house situated just a few miles from Salen at the inlet of Loch Na Keal, directly overlooking the Isle of Ulva and the cloud-topped headland and sparkling sea. In the far distance, sun-lit Iona called out to us while our party scanned the incredible views for white-tailed sea eagles and playful dolphins (among many other wild creatures) that frequent this isle.
During our stay, the weather was changeable and unseasonably cool for June but that made the experience all the more lively and evocative. Each day, we explored the beautiful and diverse isle by car, boat, and on foot. There was so much to discover and plenty to capture our imaginations.
Here are some of the places we visited:
Calgary
This pretty sandy bay with a picnic area on the machair faces west towards Coll and Tiree.
We walked on the silvery-white beach, mesmerised by the clear blue water, and made our way up along the foxglove-strewn high ground, spotting many large buzzards that could easily be mistaken for golden eagles from a distance.
The impressive Calgary Bay Arts Centre is here too, where we enjoyed tea, cake, art and crafts, and a joyful wander through the sculpture park.
Tobermory
North of the island, Tobermory was just as I’d imagined with its brightly painted houses by the harbour that inspired the children’s television series, Balamory. It's Mull's main town, built as a fishing village in the late 18th century.
We had a warm welcome and delicious lunch at the inspiring An Tobar, Mull’s Arts Centre, which overlooks Tobermory bay.
Dervaig
Inland, six miles west of Calgary Bay, at the head of Loch a’Chumhainn, is the pretty village of Dervaig (pronounced ‘dervig’), which means ‘good inlet’ in old Norse. We enjoyed a sunny evening stroll through the quiet village before having dinner at The Bellachroy Hotel, which is said to be the oldest Inn on Mull.
Kilmore Standing Stones
High above the village of Dervaig, amid stunning scenery, are the Kilmore Standing Stones.
Once hidden within a forest plantation, the site was recently cleared. There are five standing stones but only two remain upright, and the others are recumbent. I spent a few contemplative moments with these ancient markers, mind-blown by their mysterious significance that links every standing stone and megalithic monument. And here I sensed the passage of time and no time before surrendering to the paradox.
Benmore Estate
Extending to about 17,000 acres, the Benmore Estate stretches from the southern shoreline of Loch Na Keal over the summit of Benmore (the highest peak in the Inner Hebrides at 3,169ft and known as the great mountain in Gaelic) to Glen More. It’s a perfect area for spotting Golden Eagles, and there are some lovely,scenic walks here.
Grass Point
Below Loch Don on the south-east of Mull is Grass Point, which was once the main ferry point to and from the mainland. There are good views of the sea and beyond to Oban and the Isle of Kerrera.
Isle of Ulva
We took a short boat ride across the narrow strait to the oval shaped isle of Ulva. Populated since Mesolithic times, Ulva – also known as wolf island – had fewer than ten residents at the time of our visit but the community were hoping to attract more people to live and work there. Tempting!
Ulva is 7.5 miles long and about 2.5 miles wide, and is an explorer’s dream. Although the weather on our visit was definitely 'dreich' at times and quite wild on the exposed heights, we made the most of our day there.
Mr Fenwick and I explored the woods, church, and Sheila’s Cottage before having a reviving cup of tea at The Boathouse Cafe. The rest of the group, braving the elements, went on a longer trek to the bridge linking Gometra.
The Gribun
The single track roadway runs from Knock in the east along the shores of Loch Na Keal, and offers stunning sea and loch views. Littered with rock fall from the high bluffs and headland cliffs, the route is breath-taking.
And there’s still so much more of Mull to see and experience. On this occasion, we didn't have time to visit Lochbuie Stone Circle or the other Standing Stones. Another trip, perhaps.
Lasting impressions
Mull has a place in my heart for all kinds of reasons. The spectacular scenery and the abundant wildlife is astounding, but it’s also the people and the community, which makes the isle extra special. Our evening meal in the intimate setting of a family’s home at Ballygown was a heart-warming and taste-satisfying experience. Even the well-stocked Spar convenience store in Salen village, with welcoming staff and such a fantastic ambiance, made me think that this is the best Spar shop I’ve ever visited. They even stocked lots of organic goodies and gifts.
Eating dinner at Glenforsa hotel and restaurant overlooking the Sound of Mull was made more interesting as Glenforsa operates the island’s only airfield on a grass strip between the restaurant and sea. Patrons regularly fly in for dinner in this charming setting with panoramic views.
Even though it's a few years since our visit to the Isle of Mull, my inner eye takes me back there in a flash. There is something truly magical about the place. From the collection of standing stones on the island, it's clear that the isle has been populated by people for many, many moons. Today, there are only about 3,000 residents so there is plenty of space for peace and quiet, and for wildlife to thrive.
So, what about the wildlife on Mull. Did we see the white-tailed sea eagle and otters? And how was the day trip to the sacred isle of Iona? Look out for my next posts. If you’ve spent time on Mull, please do share your highlights in the comments below.
Wishing you happy travels,
Carol Anne xx
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A treat to read, Carol! Beautiful writing and what a stunning location. Enjoy your summer, sending love!
How beautiful, Carol, and I love how you say "my inner eye takes me back there in a flash." So many places to store for future comfort and inspiration. 💛🙏